St James’s has long been a hub of craftsmanship, heritage, and style – home to generations of artisans, designers, and entrepreneurs who have shaped its identity. This International Women's Day, we celebrate the inspiring women who are redefining tradition, pushing boundaries, and making their mark in this historic neighbourhood.
From pioneering tailoring on Jermyn Street to reimagining sustainable cashmere and curating a coffee experience rooted in connection, these founders are leading with creativity, resilience, and innovation. We spoke to three remarkable women – Emma Willis, Mandkhai Jargalsaikhan, and Devi Trianna – to hear their stories, inspirations, and advice for the next generation of female entrepreneurs.
EMMA WILLIS
You’ve built an incredible reputation as a female tailor in a traditionally male-dominated industry. What inspired you to pursue this craft, and what challenges have you faced along the way?
My strengths were creative from a child onwards – I loved drawing, writing, singing, acting, and dancing and would have been happy to pursue a career in any of these. The challenge for me, as I know it is for so many young people, was finding the thing you love and then having enough talent to make your living from it.
I started at University College London studying English Literature, then transferred to The Slade School of Fine Art to study life drawing while singing in a band. After a year, I lost my place at the brilliant art school as I was not working nearly hard enough – or probably not quite talented enough – and in order to pay my rent, I took a job selling clothes, in particular men’s shirts.
The men’s shirts were nice, and I knew many young men now going to work in the City, so I made appointments to visit the big banks and found a great demand – selling 100 shirts before the markets opened at 9am one morning!
I realised I had found a way to pay my rent, even if it was not at all my first dream, but it allowed me to continue drawing, singing, and writing until I began my own company with my own small sewing rooms in New Cross and my own label, which then did indeed fulfil another sort of dream.
Who are the women who have inspired you most throughout your career?
I am very inspired by women who start their own businesses, creating fulfilling jobs in the UK where we desperately need them, and therefore positively contributing towards the economy and keeping craftsmanship and making skills alive. Laura Ashley in the 1970s, who designed and made all her beautiful clothing in the UK and built her huge business, is a great example. Similarly, Emma Bridgewater with her successful china and UK pottery manufacturing and retail business.
I also have huge admiration for my great friend Penelope Chilvers, who has used her eye for colour and design to build her exciting shoe brand from scratch, with such dedication, resilience, and is a never-ending inspiration to me.
What has been your proudest moment as a female founder?
Receiving an MBE in Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth’s New Year’s Honours List for entrepreneurship at Buckingham Palace, presented to me by HRH The Prince of Wales.
Jermyn Street has long been the home of fine menswear – how has the landscape evolved, and what role do you see women playing in shaping its future?
When I arrived in Jermyn Street in December 1999, I was the only female shirt designer on the street, and all the names of shops were very masculine. However, I was welcomed, as I had had my business and factory in London for ten years, even though I didn't have a shop, and I knew most of the cutters.
Not many of the independent menswear shops are private designer/owner businesses anymore, but round the corner in Bury Street, Kathryn Sargent has now opened too.
If you could go back and give your younger self one piece of advice when starting out in the tailoring world, what would it be?
Don’t battle with the tricky customers – graciously let them go, and concentrate on all the wonderful ones!
International Women’s Day is all about celebrating progress and paving the way for the next generation. What advice would you give to women aspiring to enter the world of tailoring?
It is still very male-dominated, but things are changing fast. Both my bespoke cutters, Lucy and Kamilla, are recent graduates and assist me with all bespoke customers – measuring, fitting, and styling in London. Our company has 26 women and 4 men!
Caroline Andrew, who is the same age I was when I opened in Jermyn Street 25 years ago, has built a brilliant bespoke tailoring business on her own. We are joining forces as we work in the same way – giving great attention to the creative process of making beautiful clothes, working very hard, and getting things done efficiently for our customers while being involved in every aspect of our businesses.
So, count it as an advantage to stand out in the crowd as a woman in the tailoring world. Learn as many aspects of the business as possible, such as pattern making, cutting, sewing, and associated IT skills, and use your powers of communication and social skills, which I believe we are often blessed with.
Finally, St James’s is home to such a rich history of craftsmanship and style, and we love the neighbourhood. Do you have a favourite spot in the area – whether for inspiration, a quiet moment, or simply a great coffee?
My favourite spot is Franco’s opposite me, where so many life-changing moments for the business and our charity, Style for Soldiers, have happened – whether for coffee, lunch, drinks, or dinners. In the summer, I love sitting outside in the sun on their terrace while keeping a watchful eye on my shop and potential good new customers!