Collars & Cuffs: Decoded | St James's London


Collars & Cuffs: Decoded

When it comes to shirting, there is no mistake that the devil is in the details. We break down which is which and how to wear.Jermyn Street shirtmakers Hilditch & Key break down each element to help you style your outfits, from the everyday to the avant-garde.

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Classic Collar

The archetypical collar shape is straight and likely to be a staple in many a wardrobe. This collar is best for those below six-foot-six and is particularly complimentary for those with larger faces, as the collar spread visually slims. The points allow it to be worn with or without a tie; if wearing a tie, opt for a medium-width knot, such as the four-in-hand.

Cutaway Collar

Popular with both seasoned Sirs and dewy dudes, the cutaway injects subtle modernity into business attire. The outward-pointing collar tips have a wider spread, making it perfect for taller, skinnier frames, as it draws the eye towards the neck. Pair with a larger knot – think Windsor – as the collar really helps pop a tie.

Button Down Collar

Many may associate a button down with American casualness, but its roots hark back to civilised English polo players. The Master Shirtmaker at Hilditch & Key dismisses the ‘casual’ preconception. Dress it up with a knit tie or keep it breezy with a blazer. The button-down has you covered from bar to boardroom.

Tab Collar

Looking for something a little out of the ordinary? Tab collars were popular in the Roaring Twenties, resurfaced in the Swinging Sixties, and made popular more recently in James Bond films. The tab in question takes the form of a piece of material that bridges across the collar points and is buttoned together underneath a tie. The result is a slightly elevated tie knot and collar points that sit neatly in place throughout the day.

Philip Collar

Calling all statement makers! The rarer Phillip collar will turn heads with its large, rounded collar points, so choose this if you’re tiring of the typical.

Button Cuff

The traditional button cuff can come with one, two, or three buttons on each cuff. While there is no hard and fast rule regarding levels of formality, more mature men tend towards the one-button cuff, while younger gents prefer two- or three- button cuffs. Keep in mind that if you prefer a larger sized watch, you should avoid one-button cuffs to allow for the extra fit space.

French Cuff

The French cuff is folded back on itself and fastened with cufflinks. While many associate French cuffs with heightened formality, they are equally at ease in business environments. An added benefit is the opportunity to express yourself and add detail by accessorising with cufflinks, or go continental with a pair of understated silk knots.

Bond Cuff

If you love to mix business and pleasure, the James Bond cuff is for you. Similar to a French cuff, the Bond is folded back on itself but varies in that it is cutaway, and has a button closure – eliminating the need for cufflinks.

Mitred Button Cuff

Release your inner edginess with a mitred cuff. The corners are cut at an angle, creating a subtle yet interesting detail to help you stand out from the clones.